Continental Divide Trail (US)

Day 119 - Continental Divide Trail - Darby

Day: 119

Date: Monday, 02 September 2024

Start: Chief Joseph Pass (but staying in Darby MT)

Finish: Chief Joseph Pass (but staying in Darby MT)

Daily Kilometres: 0.0

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her runs today.

Total Kilometres: 3437.0

Weather: Warm and sunny with a heavy smoke haze.

Accommodation: Cabin

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Homemade, by Julie, scrambled eggs and ham steaks with toasted muffins and jam.

Lunch: Ham & cheese subs.

Dinner: Pulled pork, macaroni cheese, beans & coleslaw/Burrito & sweet potato fries, icecream.

Aches: Nothing reported, though Julie's eye is still sore.

Highlight: Nothing in particular.

Lowlight: Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We had a low-key day, which was just what we needed. Julie, of course, got in a morning run while Dave caught up on his sleep, then it was the usual day of chores, admin and planning done at a relaxed pace.

We now have our days for the next month tentatively mapped out, including finding our way around a newl trail closure because of a new wildfire north of Helena. The end of our journey, likely October 1st, is starting to feel real. Although we are both ready for the hardships to end, we both know we will be wishing we were back here before long so are determined to savour these last weeks.

After an early dinner at the same bar in town where we had lunch yesterday (everywhere else was closed), we had an early night and will be back on the trail early tomorrow.

Day 118 - Continental Divide Trail - Three Mile Ridge to Chief Joseph Pass

Day: 118

Date: Sunday, 01 September 2024

Start: Three Mile Ridge

Finish: Chief Joseph Pass (but staying in Darby MT)

Daily Kilometres: 18.4

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3437.0

Weather: Cool early then warm with hazy sunshine.

Accommodation: Cabin

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts

Lunch: Cheeseburgers & fries

Dinner: Meatloaf, macaroni cheese & vegetables, apple crumble & icecream.

Aches: Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - eye trouble from wildfire smoke particles (not good when you only have vision in one eye).

Highlight: Getting to Darby in Montana and our cabin around 1pm after a tough section of the CDT that has certainly tested Dave physically. Over 200km (125 miles), about 7500m (25000’) of ascent & descent in 5.5 days, the last three of which were in thick wildfire smoke haze. We are both looking forward to a relaxing day off.

Lowlight: We were impatient to get a lift into Darby, 50km from the trail, when we reached the highway and thought that more than 30 minutes of hitchhiking, when there was a reasonable amount of traffic, was too long to wait. (Eventually, a very kind lady and her daughter took pity on us and we had a.pleasamt chatty ride into Darby.)

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were late getting to sleep last night and our tent site was the worst we have had for the whole trip - sloping, lumpy and rocky, surrounded by gnarly burnt vegetation - meaning we both had poor sleep. Our sleeping mats kept sliding down into the bottom of the tent with us on top and, at one point, a tent peg was dragged out of the ground at the top end.

Anyway, we were both ready to get up when the alarm went at 5:30am and keen to get to Chief Joseph Pass, 17km away, from near where we intended to hitchhike to Darby and our day off.

The first 8km was undulating single-track trail through mostly burnt and desolate forest with the surrounding views marred by the continuing smoke haze from the wildfires in central Idaho. The smoke was affecting our eyes (both of us wear contact lenses), but Julie's good eye was particularly impacted and very painful, making her even more keen to get to Darby.

The last half of the hike to Chief Joseph Pass was a long a forest road, which meant faster hiking and we reached the Pass and Hwy 43 around 11:30am. Although there was some traffic,.not all of it was going in the direction of Darby, so we walked another 1.5km down the road to its intersection with Hwy 93 and began hitchhiking from there. It took longer than we would have liked, but we finally got a lift into Darby where we were allowed to check in early to our roomy cabin.

After quick showers, we walked down to a bar in the centre of this small Western town and enjoyed a burger accompanied by multiple cold drinks for lunch.

It's Labor Day, a public holiday in the US, tomorrow so, rather than risk shops being shut (even though we didn't expect them to be), we did most of our resupply shopping during the afternoon. While at the small supermarket we also bought some dinner that Julie later cooked in our kitchenette.

We will have a very welcome early night tonight followed by a sleep-in tomorrow.

Day 117 - Continental Divide Trail - Big Lake Creek to Three Mile Ridge

Day: 117

Date: Saturday, 31 August 2024

Start: Big Lake Creek

Finish: Three Mile Ridge

Daily Kilometres: 40.0

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3418.6

Weather: Cool early then warm with hazy sunshine.

Accommodation: Tent

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts

Lunch: Snacks/Trail mix

Dinner: Rehydrated meals.

Aches: Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported; both have eye irritation from the wildfire smoke.

Highlight: We don't very often get somewhere earlier than expected or climb less than expected, but the last 10km today qualified on both counts. After a solid day of ascents and descents, we were expecting 2500’ of ascents and 1300’ of descents. Happily, trail crews had built new trail around the sides, following the contours, of some of the mountains we were expecting to climb and the hiking was easier and faster.

Lowlight: Despite making better time than expected over the last 10km of the day (see above), we were in a badly burnt forest where we could not find anywhere suitable to put up our tent. We kept hiking to 9pm, using our headlamps, and eventually found somewhere very lumpy and very sloping. We expect an uncomfortable night.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by 6:30am on a still but smokey morning, hoping that we were in for an easier day than yesterday. Initially, though the trail was very rocky, it followed the contours high above a valley, making for comfortable walking. Sadly, the smoke haze marred the views and most of the surrounding mountains were silhouettes.

After a few kilometres we descended nearly 3000’ to the forested Sheep Creek valley, at around 5700’, our lowest point on the trail for a very long time. There were some tricky creek crossings, but we managed OK apart from Dave dunking one boot when he slipped off a rock.

Whatever goes down must come up, and the afternoon was spent climbing on a mix of single-track and 4WD tracks back up to the crest of the Continental Divide and the Idaho-Montana border at over 8000’. There were some really nice forested sections along the way and there would have been some good views, but the smoke haze spoiled them.

After dinner at Big Hole Pass (7053’), where we were passed by a couple in their car on the forest road, the only people we saw all day, we apprehensively tackled our last 10km of the day, which didn't turn out quite as bad as expected (see above), though it was sad to see so much burnt forest showing no signs of regeneration.

Eventually, we found somewhere to camp (see above), having gone further and later than hoped. We are looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow and a day off on Monday in the town of Darby, to which we will hitchhike.

Day 116 - Continental Divide Trail - Miner Creek to Big Lake Creek

Day: 116

Date: Friday, 30 August 2024

Start: Miner Creek

Finish: Big Lake Creek

Daily Kilometres: 35.5

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3378.6

Weather: Cool early then mild to warm and sunny with a smoke haze.

Accommodation: Tent

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts

Lunch: Snacks/Trail mix

Dinner: Rehydrated meals

Aches: Dave - very tired and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight: We spent much of the day surrounded by magnificent steep rocky mountains, reminiscent of the Wind River Range, complete with pristine alpine lakes and gnarly pine forest in the valleys.

Lowlight: Thick smoke haze from some big wildfires in central Idaho marred the views and irritated Dave's eyes. The radio news tells us that many local sporting and other outdoor events have been cancelled or postponed this long weekend, including the opening of the high school football season, because of the health dangers posed by the smoke.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Dave forgot to set the alarm and we didn't wake until after 6am but, with a big effort, were hiking by 7am on a smoky cool morning.

Initially, we had a long descent, 1000’, from the 8300’ where we had been camped, but then it was a day of mountains and mountain passes as the CDT, which had strayed well into Montana, made its way back to the Continental Divide and the Idaho-Montana border.

It seemed like we were always climbing, mostly on good trail and often switch-backing, and we did ascend nearly 5000’ over the day, but there was nearly as much descending. Progress was slow, but the scenery was brilliant, and a big change from yesterday's “green tunnel”.

Apart from the hikers who camped near us last night and said goodbye as they left, we saw one other young northbound CDT thruhiker early on, then nobody else for the rest of the day.

We kept hiking until 8pm to make up for our slow progress and late start and found a tent site just off the trail on a saddle beneath a towering rocky mountain. It had been a tough but good day.

Day 115 - Continental Divide Trail - Goldstone Pass to Miner Creek

Day: 115

Date: Thursday, 29 August 2024

Start: Goldstone Pass

Finish: Miner Creek

Daily Kilometres: 37.8

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3343.1

Weather: Cold early then mild to warm and mostly sunny.

Accommodation: Tent

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts

Lunch: Snacks/Trail mix

Dinner: Rehydrated meals

Aches: Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight: After a fairly windy night, we woke to a calm and very cold morning and the first couple of hours hiking were magic as we climbed over some rocky knolls and followed a cliff edge as the sun gradually rose.

Lowlight: Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Strangely, three motorcycles roared by on the remote forest road near to where we were camped at around 10:30pm. What were they doing? Anyway, apart from the noise, they didn't disturb us and we woke at 5:30am after a windy night.

It was perfectly calm as we packed up and we were hiking by 6:45am on a beautiful, if cold, morning. The first hours, though they involved a couple of solid climbs and descents were fantastic. Great views up high and lovely peaceful forest in the valleys.

After those first few hours, the rest of the day was spent hiking on undulating single-track trail through mostly pine forest at a lower altitude, between 7000’ and 8000’. There were occasional meadows and pretty little streams but mostly we were in the “green tunnel”.

It was warmer and calmer than yesterday and, by afternoon, we were both hiking in shorts and t-shirts

We didn't see anybody at all until after we had set up camp around 7:20pm, when, about an hour later, two northbound CDT thru-hikers turned up, one of whom we have met before, and camped nearby. We thought we were the last of the northbounders, but apparently not.

Day 114 - Continental Divide Trail - Warm Springs Road to Goldstone Pass

Day: 114

Date: Wednesday, 28 August 2024

Start: Warm Springs Road

Finish: Goldstone Pass

Daily Kilometres: 37.1

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3305.3

Weather: Very cold early then cool and mostly sunny with a cold wind.

Accommodation: Tent

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts

Lunch: Snacks/Trail mix

Dinner: Rehydrated meals

Aches: Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported

Highlight: After spending most of the day hiking through forest, the last two hours took us across a series of rocky outcrops with terrific views of the surrounding mountains.

Lowlight: Getting up in the mornings has been a lowlight for the last few weeks when it has been very cold. We both curse when the alarm goes off, not wanting to leave the warmth of our sleeping bags, but we do. Then comes 30 minutes of getting dressed and packing everything up inside the tent, keeping as warm as possible, then 30 minutes of packing up outside, including the tent and our packs and sorting out what food needs to be accessible during the day. It can be a miserable 30 minutes with frozen hands. It's always a relief to put on our packs and start walking.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

It rained quite a lot overnight but, with a wind continuing to blow, everything was dry when we woke and packed to leave on an exceptionally cold morning. The rain last night had been part of a strong cold front, as the weatherman on Dave's radio later reported.

For most of the day, we continued to follow the Continental Divide and the state border northwards, mostly on reasonable single-track trail through pine forest, although we did pass through several burn areas. It was good to see new trees beginning to grow in these stark landscapes.

There was only one place to get water during the day, a stream which we accessed by detouring off the trail and following a forest road for a few kilometres. We saw two cars on the road and the only other person we saw today was a trail runner. The trail here is part of the course of the Beaverhead Ultra.

Later in the day, we reached a more rocky landscape and the trail took us over some outcrops before climbing steeply to the top of the last, reaching 9700’, before we descended steeply to Goldstone Pass. Julie, who had gone ahead, got some water from a spring a little off the trail and we found somewhere reasonably protected to camp amongst the trees around 7pm. There is a cold wind blowing and it is very cold, so we ate and got into the tent as quickly as we could.

Day 113 - Continental Divide Trail - Bannock Pass to Warm Springs Road

Day: 113

Date: Tuesday, 27 August 2024

Start: Bannock Pass (but staying in Leadore ID)

Finish: Warm Springs Road

Daily Kilometres: 39.7

GPX Track: Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres: 3268.2

Weather: Cold early then mild to warm and mostly sunny with a smoke haze.

Accommodation: Tent

Nutrition:

Breakfast: Pop tarts/Pop tarts

Lunch: Snacks/Trail mix

Dinner: Rehydrated meals

Aches: Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight: Nothing in particular.

Lowlight: Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Jen, our shuttle driver, delivered is back to the trail at 7:00am and we were hiking soon afterwards on a cold and breezy morning.

Heavy packs and uphill, as usual, for our first day out of town, but at least the grade of the trail was not too steep.

We climbed up from Bannock Pass (7682’) onto the crest of the Continental Divide )also the Idaho-Montana border) and followed it roughly northwards for the rest of the day, generally at around 9000’.

For much of the time we were in pine forest and, for the first 10km, followed a very old log fence that marked the border. Occasionally, we emerged into meadows with views that made us realise how high we were, with valleys and agriculture far below.

On the Montana side, later in the day, we could see the wildfire burning that we had heard about, but it didn't seem to pose any threat to us. However, as the day wore on, the smoke haze became thicker and thicker though it may have emanated from other wildfires in Idaho.

The trail alternated between single-track and 4WD track and though there was the occasional steep section, the walking was generally good. Nevertheless, there was plenty of elevation gain and loss during the day (+/- 4400’) so we were working hard.

We didn't see anybody on the trail in the morning but, later in the day we met a southbound CDT hiker and a couple riding ATVs then, shortly before we camped, we came across a trail-crew camp with a couple of guys who had been building new trail (which we had just hiked along).

There weren't many possible tent sites on the sloping and rocky terrain when we started looking for a spot around 7:30pm and it was 8pm before we found a marginal sloping site and set up our tent. It is very smoky.