Day 026 - Continental Divide Trail - Mount Taylor to Cibola National Forest

Day: 026

Date: Saturday, 01 June 2024

Start:  Mount Taylor

Finish:  Cibola National Forest

Daily Kilometres:  37.9

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  766.9

Weather:  Very warm and sunny

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Noodles & tuna/Rice & chicken

Aches:  Dave - very tired and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported 

Highlight:  None really.

Lowlight:  The scarcity of water was an issue and we had to carry a lot for the last few hours of the day to cater for camping and tomorrow morning.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We began hiking at 6am and immediately began to encounter some hills, though the early morning forest was beautiful.

Our trail seemed to skirt around Mount Taylor's upper slopes, but this meant negotiating a number of ridges and valleys and the trail was up and down.  We were still at significant altitude (9000’+) and Dave found it hard work.

The forest remained beautiful and we began seeing a lot of silver birch trees and some nice green pastures.

Eventually we descended from Mount Taylor and ended up crossing high plains (~8500’) grazing country for the remainder of the day.  While collecting water from the last cow pond of the day we met a female hiker who told us about the fresh bear prints near where she camped last night and showed us an impressive photo.

Our progress was slower than hoped today, although we made up a bit of time on the 4WD track we followed for the last 10km of the day.

Soon after 6pm we found a spot to camp off the side of the trail and happily called it a day.

Day 025 - Continental Divide Trail - Grants to Mount Taylor

Day: 025

Date: Friday, 31 May 2024

Start:  Grants 

Finish:  Mount Taylor

Daily Kilometres:  30.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  729.0

Weather:  Very warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Egg sandwiches 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Noodles & tuna/Rehydrated meal

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  For Dave, at least, it was calling into the local Verizon office on our way out of Grants and finally sorting out how to pay for his prepaid phone plan - pay five months in advance - it can't be done online or via phone.

Lowlight:  None really 

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We had a relaxed start to the morning and didn't leave our motel until 8am.  Logistically, this made sense as we were going to detour via the Verizon store, 4.5km away, on our way out of town and they didn't open until 9am.

The plan worked and we got there right on 9am and Dave was able to sort out payment for his phone plan fairly quickly.  There was a supermarket next door so we got a snack and drink before leaving town.  This was the last place we could get water until the end of the day so we made sure we had enough before we left.

Almost our entire day was climbing, right from the time we left our motel at about 6500’ until just before we stopped for the day when we reached 8900’.

Leaving Grants, we had a 6km steadily uphill road walk, the highlight of which was passing a large prison, with signs warning passing motorists not to pick up hitchhikers!  On either side of the road were craggy bluffs and the scenery was good.

Soon we were climbing one of those craggy bluffs on nice single track, though steep in parts.  The country was desert-like, with lots of cacti, chollas, and other prickly plants.  Some were in bloom, which was pretty.

Atop the bluff we were on a broad ridge with occasional excellent views, including to Grants and the prison, now far below.

The walking was easier on the ridge, although occasionally rocky, and we made reasonable time despite continuing to gradually climb. The desert plants became scarce and we were soon in some lovely pine forest.

Around 5:30pm, we reached a forest road crossing that had a small black pipeline running next to it on which was mounted a spigot.  The water was warm, but welcome, and we loaded up with what we needed for the night and walked another kilometre before finding a lovely place to camp beside the trail in the forest.

We are on the upper slopes of Mount Taylor, and had the option of taking an alternate route over the summit (11300’), but decided to stick to the official CDT and avoid the climb.

Day 024 - Continental Divide Trail - Grants

Day: 024

Date: Thursday, 30 May 2024

Start:  Grants, NM

Finish:  Grants, NM

Daily Kilometres:  0

GPX Track:  Click here and here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her run and walk today.

Total Kilometres:  698.7

Weather:  Warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  American breakfast

  Lunch:  Italian sub/Chicken salad

  Dinner:  Nachos & taco, icecream.

Aches:  Nothing to report.

Highlight:  None really

Lowlight:  Dave had a frustrating day dealing with bureaucratic US organisations.

Pictures: No pictures today.

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Julie went for a run around town while Dave did some planning, then we walked to a nearby Denny's restaurant for an American breakfast before going to the nearby Walmart to do our shopping.

After returning to our motel room and sorting out what had to be mailed ahead we tried to organise the local on-demand bus service to take us to the post office, but they said they were too busy.  So, after lunch, Julie walked the 4km to the post office (and return) to mail our parcels while Dave tried to sort out payment for his prepaid Verizon phone service using an Australian credit card.  Harder than it sounds and still not done.

The famed Route 66 passes through Grants and we walked along some of it yesterday on our way into town.  It's one of the town's tourist attractions and Julie saw more Route 66 signage around town on her journey to the post office today.

After laundry later in the afternoon, we bought dinner at a nearby restaurant and ate it in our room before having an early night.

Back on the road/trail tomorrow.

Day 023 - Continental Divide Trail - Acoma-Zuni Trailhead to Grants

Day: 023

Date: Wednesday, 29 May 2024

Start:  Acoma-Zuni Trailhead

Finish:  Grants, NM

Daily Kilometres:  40.1

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  698.7

Weather:  Cool early, then very warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Mexicali Sub

  Dinner:  Cheeseburger & fries, thick shake.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles and a new blister, probably from road pounding; Julie - her left knee still giving her some trouble.

Highlight:  After our limited menu for dinner last night, we were keen to make a Subway restaurant, where the trail crossed the Interstate 40 Hwy, by lunchtime, even though we had to cover 24km first.  We did it in good time, and were in the Subway, for an excellent and much-appreciated lunch, before 1pm.

Lowlight:  None really.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were on the road, literally, by 6am, now back on the “official” CDT route, having finished the Cebolla Alternate last night.

Our first goal was to reach a ranger station, 10km down the road, where we planned to get water.  The road was quiet and the walking enjoyable with continuing sandstone cliffs to the right and the austere black lava field to the left.  We made good time and reached the ranger station around 8am.  It has been closed to the public because of a problem with the water supply, but we climbed over the closed gate and walked up to the ranger station where several large containers of water had been left by a picnic table, specifically for CDT hikers.  Another thoughtful and valuable contribution to our journey.

After breakfast, we were keen to cover the remaining 15km to the I40 freeway junction and the Subway restaurant there, and continued our good progress.  The road was busier now and, although the scenery continued to be spectacular, it was tiring to be constantly observing the traffic and making sure we were safe.  Having said that, nearly all drivers gave us a very wide berth and many waved, some obviously aware of journey.

We reached the freeway around 1pm and enjoyed our lunch sub (see above).  Several other customers were keen to chat with us about our trek.

With another 10km to our booked motel, we began to think how we might get to the Post Office before 5pm and pick up our two parcels - one food sent on from Doc Campbell’s and the other winter gear.  Grants is a spread out town and the PO is 4km beyond our motel.  We were, however, aware there was a cheap on-demand bus service in town that hikers had used.  With 5km to go, Dave called to try and book a bus from our motel to the PO around 4pm, just after our anticipated arrival.  No dice.  They could take us at 3:30pm.  Eventually, they agreed to pick us up at a point outside town, about 3km from our motel, and take us to the PO, and back, at 3:15pm.

It was a little surreal jumping on the bus and being taken to the PO, picking up our mail, and then being returned to our original pickup point outside town.  The driver offered to take us directly to our motel, but that would mean that we missed 2km of our journey and we are determined to walk every step of the way.

We actually met another CDT hiker on the bus, who had hitch-hiked into Grants, reasoning that road walking was hard on the body and why not just hitch-hike along the same road rather than walk.  Each to his/her own.

In the last few days we have also been passed by a few cyclists riding the Continental Divide Trail mountain bike route, which has intersected with our route.

We finally reached our motel around 4:30pm and checked in.  Later, we bought take-away dinner from a nearby fast food restaurant.

Looking forward to a day off tomorrow.

Day 022 - Continental Divide Trail - Armijo Canyon to Acoma-Zuni Trailhead

Day: 022

Date: Tuesday, 28 May 2024

Start:  Armijo Canyon

Finish:  Acoma-Zuni Trailhead

Daily Kilometres:  41.5

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  658.6

Weather:  Cold early then hot and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Pop tarts/Trail mix

Aches:  Dave - very tired and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Although it was road walking, the 5km stretch of road known as The Narrows, was super-impressive.  On the right were towering sandstone cliffs incorporating some awesome natural formations and, on the left, was the vast expanse of the El Malpais lava fields, black, rugged and showing how the lava had flowed before it had cooled.

Lowlight:  We miscalculated our food for this leg, so tonight's meal was the exciting mix of pop tarts and trail mix.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

In contrast to yesterday's road walking, today's hiking began with following a trail up through Armijo Canyon.  Much more interesting walking in the early morning light with the sun illuminating the cliffs and mountains around us, even if slower on the sandy trail.

After an hour we climbed out of the canyon, crossed a plateau and descended into Sand Canyon, which we followed downstream, though no water was evident.  After a while we picked up a 4WD track and followed that with the rocky bluffs of the canyon walls evident on one side or the other.

Around noon, the track reached a main road, which we followed for the rest of the day but, first, we detoured to a solar well, our only water source for the day.  We drank up while we had our lunch and then loaded up 3 litres each to see us through to tomorrow morning when we reach a ranger station.

After lunch we continued road walking northwards under a hot sun, with vehicles generally going out of their way to give us a wide berth.  Mid-afternoon, we reached a picnic area where we planned a break and were met by a woman who had passed us on the road and insisted we eat some oranges and biscuits they had, and take some water.  Her husband, knowledgeable about the CDT, was fixing a flat tyre on their trailer while we ate.

From there we walked through The Narrows (see above) and stopped for our last break of the day at the impressive La Ventana natural arch.

Both sides of the road were fenced off for the next 4km but, as we hoped, when we reached the Acoma-Zuni Trailhead, we were able to walk a little way up the track and find a site for our tent soon after 6pm.

Humourously, as we started to set up camp, three Chinese tourists, a mother, her son, and a granddaughter, returned from a short walk along the trail.  The grandmother, who turns 70 soon, was very impressed with our journey and insisted that many photos were taken.

More road walking tomorrow, but then a day off.

Day 021 - Continental Divide Trail - Pie Town to Armijo Canyon

Day: 021

Date: Monday, 27 May 2024

Start:  Pie Town

Finish:  Armijo Canyon

Daily Kilometres:  42.6

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  617.1

Weather:  Cold early, then very warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals 

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles plus a new blister; Julie - nothing reported 

Highlight:  Around noon, we reached the TLC Ranch where, on the porch of an old ranch building near the road, the owners had provided kegs of cold water, apples, tables and chairs, and a trash bin, something hikers are always on the lookout for.  We had a very welcome break there and enjoyed our cold apple.

Lowlight:  Knowing that we have no water access for the first 23km tomorrow, nor for the last 10km today, we loaded up with three litres each at a solar well in the late afternoon, adding an unwelcome extra 3kg to each of our packs at the end of a long hot day, and trudged that last 10km.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by 6am on another cold morning, planning to cover at least 38km of the CDT road walk ahead of us and reach the Cebolla Alternate turnoff which we plan to take.

It turned into a fairly tedious day on a dirt road through ranching country, though we saw few cattle.  The road was undulating, often straight for long periods and the ranch scrubland relatively uninteresting.  There were only two places we could get water, the TLC Ranch (see above) and a solar well feeding a cattle trough.  It was a very warm day with the sun reflecting up at us from the clay road.

The last 10km, with heavy packs (see above) was across a wide treeless basin and we were relieved to reach our Cebolla Turnoff and start gradually climbing towards the Armijo Canyon.

We found a good place to camp at the Canyon trailhead soon after 6pm, very happy that our day's hiking was over.

Water is also very scarce tomorrow again and Julie is researching our options, as she usually does while Dave writes the blog.

Day 020 - Continental Divide Trail - Martin Canyon to Pie Town

Day: 020

Date: Sunday, 26 May 2024

Start:  Martin Canyon 

Finish:  Pie Town

Daily Kilometres:  42.5

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  574.5

Weather:  Very cold early then warm, sunny and windy 

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Chicken pieces, macaroni cheese & vegetables, cherry pie.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Our early dinner at the Pie-o-neer restaurant in Pie Town.  When we arrived in Pie Town, the first of the two restaurants (the only two commercial establishments in town) we tried had just closed at 3pm and we feared the other might do the same.  But, no, not only were they open, but they had an enormous and tasty Sunday dinner tray special which we both enjoyed.  Pies were their speciality, so we bought a delicious cherry pie to take with us for a dinner snack tonight.

Lowlight:  Having had a big meal and loaded our packs with three days food and a couple of litres of water each, the three and a half miles evening road walk out of town was not much fun.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We left camp at 6am for what we knew would be a day of road walking and so it proved to be with a break mid-afternoon to eat (see above) and resupply in the tiny village of Pie Town, though not so tiny that it couldn't support four churches.

The road walk was along undulating dirt road through ranching country, with ranges of mountains visible all around.  It was easy walking and very few vehicles.  One was driven by an old rancher who stopped for a social chat.

A characteristic of the day that we will remember was the kindness from anonymous strangers that we experienced and benefitted from.  

Around 8am, we reached Davila Ranch, where a facility to aid CDT hikers has been set up just off the road in the bush.  In a series of tin sheds the following could be found - water, hot water, shower, toilet, stove, refrigerator stocked with dozens of eggs and kilos of potatoes, other food, washing machines, driers, electrical outlets for charging devices and wi-fi, along with tables and chairs.  There was nobody supervising and donations were asked for based on what was used.  All on a trust basis.  You could easily have stayed there for days, but we just stopped in for 30 minutes.  Geoff, the hiker we met yesterday had stayed there last night.

Water was scarce along the road and we were lucky that another property maintained a water cache at its front gate for hikers.

Finally, the Toaster House is an unsupervised hostel in Pie Town where we collected our mailed food parcel and left our packs while we ate at a cafe.  It was a large ramshackle house with all the facilities, including bedding, that was run totally on an honesty basis for hikers, who are entrusted to keep it neat and tidy.  It would have been easy to stay there for a few days as well.  Geoff was staying there a couple of nights until the Post Office opens on Tuesday, and it looks like he will have the place to himself.

As mentioned above, we collected our food and ate in Pie Town before rejoining the official CDT and following it north out of town.  There were ranches and “No Trespassing” signs on both sides of the road and, around 6pm, we found a flat spot near a tree on the roadside verge and set up camp.  A few cars have passed, but no trouble so far.