Day 082 - Continental Divide Trail - Sweetwater River to Atlantic City

Day: 082

Date: Saturday, 27 July 2024

Start:  Sweetwater River 

Finish:  Atlantic City, WY

Daily Kilometres:  17.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2409.7

Weather:  Cold to cool and mostly overcast with strong winds and occasional showers and thunderstorms.

Accommodation:  Cabin at B&B

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Cheeseburgers & fries

  Dinner:  Cheeseburgers & fries (the menu wasn't that big!), strawberry & rhubarb pie & icecream.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  It was satisfying to complete our crossing of the Great Divide Basin without the terrifying thunderstorms, debilitatingly heat or gale force winds other hikers have dealt with.  Although we had a taste of all three, they were quite manageable.  There was an awful lot of nothing out there, and we saw very few people, but that in itself made it interesting and an experience to remember.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We had a good night's sleep and were hiking by soon after 6am, hoping to reach Atlantic City, where we had a B&B cabin booked, in time for lunch.

It was a much colder morning than for the last week and we both had frozen hands after the tent packup for the first hour of hiking.  Although we had a beautiful sunrise, the weather gradually deteriorated as we walked and soon it was very grey and dull with an increasingly strong cold wind blowing.  Usually, we remove some clothing layers after the first hour or two of hiking but not this morning.  The landscape was bare and treeless with a few scattered cows.  It was bleak and worsening, with a few light showers coming through and some distant thunder.

For most of the way we were hiking along a gravel road with almost no traffic and making good time.  After climbing gradually most of the morning, we descended quite sharply into the old mining village of Atlantic City, which boasts a 150 year history and has metal plaques outside many properties describing what the building had previously been, or what had previously occupied the site.

The housing is now mostly wooden cabins or mobile homes plus two bars/cafes, next to each other, and a tiny general store.  It's the kind of place where people come to live off the grid and we doubt there are many Democrats in town.

We found our B&B on the way into town, arriving around 11am, and left our packs on their verandah before walking a kilometre to one of the cafes and having a very welcome and tasty early lunch.  In the early afternoon, we returned to the B&B, met “Wild Bill”, our very friendly and accommodating host and were given access to our cabin.  Apart from operating the B&B with his partner, “Wild Bill” is also a gunsmith, selling guns and ammo, a knifesmith, and operates a septic tank cleaning business.  Truly a jack of all trades, and a very nice one at that.

Disappointingly, there is no electric power in the cabin to charge our devices, a critical function for thruhikers, but there is a power board on the verandah of the main house we can use.

During the afternoon, Julie managed to do our laundry and we sorted out our food, which we had mailed ahead to “Wild Bill”, for the next five days to Pinedale, our next stop.  We are looking forward to this next leg which takes us into the renowned Wind River Range and the start of grizzly bear territory (which stretches from here to Canada).

In late afternoon we walked back to the same cafe where we had lunch for an early dinner.  Later, back at the B&B, we enjoyed a cake and ice cream supper on the verandah with "Wild Bill" who told us about his very interesting life.

After breakfast tomorrow we will be back on the trail.

Day 081 - Continental Divide Trail - Bison Basin Road to Sweetwater River

Day: 081

Date: Friday, 26 July 2024

Start:  Bison Basin Road

Finish:  Sweetwater River

Daily Kilometres:  40.7

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2392.4

Weather:  Mild to warm and partly sunny with a strong wind for much of the day.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks/Trail mix

  Dinner:  Chicken & rice

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles including the new ones; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were woken at 3:30am by the sound of a strong wind buffeting the tent.  It was too noisy to go back to sleep and Dave feared the tent could be damaged if it got any stronger, so we got up at 3:45am and packed up camp.  By the time we had finished the wind had abated a little but, an hour later, it became very strong again and continued into the early afternoon.

Although Dave was complaining about lack of sleep and fatigue from yesterday, one advantage of the early start was that it meant we should comfortably be able to cover the 39km+ we hoped for the day, giving us only about 20km tomorrow morning into the tiny village of Atlantic City where we have a B&B booked for the night.

We hiked using our headlamps for the first hour or so, backed by a beautiful sunrise gradually illuminating the sagebrush plain in front of us.  The day seemed a repeat of yesterday in that, after a few kilometres, we spent the rest of the morning gradually climbing through a series of valleys, this time to about 7500’.  The CDT followed a complicated course, as was the case yesterday, connecting up a series of unused 4WD tracks that took it in the desired direction.  It would have been hard to follow on a hardcopy map, but our navigation app proved up to the task.

Water availability was again an issue, and we planned our day and breaks around the few water sources, which we generally shared with the few cattle we saw and, later, a herd of wild horses with a number of foals.

We crossed a high treeless plain with some attractive rocky outcrops for much of the afternoon and, as some small trailside markers told us, we were following the route of the famed Oregon and California Trails used by wagon trains taking settlers west in the 19th Century.  What a trip that must have been, and what a forlorn and depressing sight the Great Divide Basin must have been to those optimistic pioneers.  It really was a lot of nothing, though the distant snow-patched Wind River Range became a feature of our afternoon view.

Around 4pm we began a steady descent along a better gravel road, meeting an English couple mountain-biking south along the Great Divide MTB route, the first people we had seen all day.  After a bit of gnarly single-track we reached the Sweetwater River and camped near its banks at around 5:30pm.

We had an early night, looking forward to showers, laundry, soft beds and some junk food tomorrow, after four very solid days across the Basin.

Day 080 - Continental Divide Trail - Crooks Creek to Bison Basin Road

Day: 080

Date: Thursday, 25 July 2024

Start:  Crooks Creek 

Finish:  Bison Basin Road

Daily Kilometres:  44.1

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2351.7

Weather:  Warm with hazy sunshine in the morning, overcast with a strong warm wind in the afternoon and a brief shower.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks/Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Tuna/Chicken & rice

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles plus sore toes and shoulder chafing; Julie - sore toes.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  After a long day, missing a turn with 5km to go, and wasting about 15 minutes.  Not a lot in the scheme of things, but frustrating at the time.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by soon after 6am in the knowledge that we had a long day ahead of us.  To reach water to camp for tonight we needed to cover 43km+, as there were no water sources after about 22km.

It promised to be a warm day, with quite a lot of heat in the sun by 7:30am but, as the day wore on, a haze developed which grew into cloud cover and it wasn't as bad as feared, but still thirsty work.  However, it did become very windy and we were battling into an unpleasant strong warm headwind for most of the afternoon.

Although we were continuing to cross the Great Divide Basin, after few kilometres,  we began climbing a mountain range that even had a few trees on it, getting up to about 8000’.  Mostly, however, the vegetation remained sage brush or tussocky grass, and treeless.  At the top of the climb, we remained high for many kilometres with good views from the bare ridges down to the plain below, from whence we came.

Although we dipped down into some valleys, we did stay high until near the end of the day, even catching some glimpses of the jagged Wind River Range where we will be in three or four days time.

The last hour saw us lose significant elevation until we reached our target trailhead at 7000’, soon after 7:30pm, where there is a very welcome water cache and we camped nearby.  Dave was very tired and sore.

Day 079 - Continental Divide Trail - Bull Springs to Crooks Creek.

Day: 079

Date: Wednesday, 24 July 2024

Start:  Bull Springs 

Finish:  Crooks Creek 

Daily Kilometres:  38.4

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2307.6

Weather:  Hot and sunny

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/ Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks/Trail mix

  Dinner:  Chicken & rice

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles plus a couple of sore toes; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  The water cache, maintained by a church group from a little hamlet about 15km from the trail, was a most welcome stop for breakfast.  They had even provided cushions for us to sit on while we drank and ate.

Lowlight:  Biting flies were a nuisance all day.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We woke at 5am, just as our four fellow thruhikers, who were camped nearby, departed.  They must have woken very early and packed very quietly.

We were packed and gone by soon after 6am on a day that was already warm.  By 7:30am we were hiking in shorts and T-shirts and expecting a hot day, which it turned out to be.

For many kilometres we followed, and could see stretching out far ahead, a 4WD track passing through arid treeless sagebrush country.  We stopped at a very welcome water cache for breakfast (see above) and continued gradually climbing to a ridge at 7500’, about 500’ higher than our starting point, before gradually descending a similar amount during the afternoon.

Our lunch stop was at a creek flowing out of a small dam near where a little-used dirt country road crossed the trail.  It was very hot and there was no shade.  While stopped, two Continental Divide mountain bikers came past, and a local in a pickup slowed to check that we were OK.

The afternoon was more of the same country though the trail became very sandy which made hiking harder and slower.

Soon after 6pm we reached the spring which was our target for the day and camped close by.  It was nice to have running water for a change and we both had a refreshing wash in the cold water after a hot sweaty day.

Day 078 - Continental Divide Trail - Rawlins to Bull Springs

Day: 078

Date: Tuesday, 23 July 2024

Start:  Rawlins

Finish:  Bull Springs

Daily Kilometres:  45.2

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2269.2

Weather:  Very warm with hazy (from wildfires to the north) sunshine.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Microwaved breakfast burritos.

  Lunch:  Ham & cheese subs

  Dinner:  Tuna/Chicken & rice

Aches:  Dave - chafed shoulders and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Conscious that we had 42km+ to hike today to get to the second of two water sources as a campsite, we woke at 4:30am and were hiking by soon after 5:30am.

Initially, we had about 27km of road walking to do along the busy Hwy 287, with a small deviation after 19km to a solar spring to get enough water to see us through the rest of the day.  The countryside along the highway was arid sage brush-covered hills, occasionally with some cattle visible. The last part of the highway roadwalk was a steady descent to the Great Divide Basin which looked like a desert spread out before us.

Four of the CDT hikers we had dinner with last night, a young married couple from Boston, a young French girl and a retired US serviceman from Reno, who were a “trail family”, meaning they loosely travelled together each day, were hiking the same route as us today and we saw them several times, and ended up camped in the same place tonight.  

At the bottom of the descent, we left the highway to follow a perfectly straight old sealed road into that desert for many kilometres.  There was almost no traffic, but a pickup did stop along the way and the driver, after asking Dave whether he was too old for this, gave us both a bottle of water!

In mid-afternoon, we left the sealed road and followed a rough undulating 4WD track for the remainder of the day, which had become very warm.  However, the earlier road walking had allowed us to make good time, and we reached Bull Springs, our goal for the day, around 5:45pm and found a campsite nearby.  There are cows about and plenty of cow pads around our tent.

Day 077 - Continental Divide Trail - Rawlins

Day: 077

Date: Monday, 22 July 2024

Start:  Rawlins

Finish:  Rawlins

Daily Kilometres:  0.0

GPX Track:  Click here and here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her runs and walk today.

Total Kilometres:  2224.0

Weather:  Warm and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Three egg scramble, toast & jam.

  Lunch:  Chicken salad subs

  Dinner:  Cheeseburgers, apple crumble & icecream.

Aches:  Nothing to mention.

Highlight:  For dinner, we joined a BBQ in the motel courtyard organized by a young married couple hiking the CDT who are staying at the same motel and who we met earlier on the trail.  It was an enjoyable evening with lots of interesting stories shared.  There, we also met “Log Man” who is carrying a log on his shoulder (in addition to the pack on his back), for the entire CDT.  He has already hiked the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail carrying his log (to raise money for charity), so he is one tough cookie.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here.

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Another slow start to the day with Dave really catching up on some missing sleep, not waking for 11 hours.

For breakfast, we walked back to the same diner where we had breakfast yesterday and ordered pretty much the same thing again, before walking 2km down to the old part of town and the post office to mail food ahead to our next town, the hamlet of Atlantic City.  By the time we boxed and sorted out addressing, etc, it took some time.  The PO staff were very kind and helpful.  

There is obviously some local pride in the historic old part of town, but still many shuttered businesses.  Rawlins seems mostly dependent on the business generated by the I-80 transcontinental freeway and the transcontinental railway (on which there always seems to be a very long slow-moving freight train) which pass through town.

Then, it was back to the motel and lunch before Julie went to the nearby supermarket to buy the remaining supplies we need for the next 180km-long leg crossing the Great Basin in the Red Desert of Wyoming.  The Basin is a depression on the Continental Divide where no rain that falls ever reaches any ocean and we know that water will be scarce and we will be very exposed.  Also, we are unlikely to have much Internet access, so blog updates are unlikely.

Later, we joined some fellow CDT hikers for an enjoyable BBQ dinner in the motel courtyard (see above).

We had an early night, anticipating a long day tomorrow.

Day 076 - Continental Divide Trail - Rawlins

Day: 076

Date: Sunday, 21 July 2024

Start:  Rawlins 

Finish:  Rawlins

Daily Kilometres:  0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her runs this morning.

Total Kilometres:  2224.0

Weather:  Mild and partly overcast.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Three egg scramble, toast & jam/pancake & syrup

  Lunch:  Chicken salad subs

  Dinner:  Chicken fettuccine, apple crumble & icecream.

Aches:  Nothing to report.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

A quiet day, though with lots of planning and shopping for supplies, some of which will be mailed ahead tomorrow.

We had breakfast at a nearby diner, but ate our other meals in our motel room, which has clothes and gear spread everywhere.  Making ourselves right at home.

Dave spent much of the day glued to the TV watching coverage of Biden’s withdrawal from the Presidential race, but did venture out to buy some bear spray.  We will soon be in grizzly country.

Julie had her usual “in town” pre-breakfast run and took care of most of the shopping as well as laundry.  There are a number of other CDT hikers staying in our motel (which has a good reputation amongst hikers because of its low price and convenient location) and we have had a chat with some of them.

We are looking forward to another sleep-in tomorrow and another quiet day before getting back on the trail on Tuesday.

Day 075 - Continental Divide Trail - Sage Creek Road to Rawlins

Day: 075

Date: Saturday, 20 July 2024

Start:  Sage Creek Road

Finish:  Rawlins

Daily Kilometres:  52.2

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2224.0

Weather:  Mild early, then warm and mostly sunny, with a late afternoon thunderstorm and rain.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Cheeseburgers & fries, choc chip cookies.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - trench feet still painful.

Highlight:  We had camped last night with just a cupful of water between us and were hoping that we would be able to find water along the road walk today, though we knew it was scarce.  We had been told that some “trail angels” had left a couple of coolers with water for hikers along the route, but we didn't know exactly where or how to find them.  Therefore, just as dawn was breaking and after 90 minutes of walking, we were very happy to see a small sign pointing off the road to water for hikers, and even more happy to find some ice cold cans of Pepsi in the cooler along with the water.

Lowlight:  We could have done without the steady rain for the last few kilometres of today's hike.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Both of us were awake around 3am and, conscious of the long day's roadwalk ahead of us, we decided to pack up and were hiking by 4am on a very quiet road under a starry sky with the moon just setting in the west behind some thin clouds.  It was very peaceful and we only saw one vehicle in the first few hours as the road undulated through rolling sage brush-covered hills.  Water was going to be an issue all day, and we were very happy to find a cooler with water around 5:30am (see above).

As the sun rose, there were more vehicles, but it never became very busy and there was plenty of room to walk along the roadside.  It was, however, very exposed and we could often see the road winding through the hills kilometres ahead.  We were making reasonable time but, as the day wore on, the sheer immensity of the 50km+ roadwalk with packs weighed down on us, literally.  We were carrying more food than needed and Dave was doing his best to eat down the weight in his pack at each break.  Julie, who had painful trench feet from wearing wet shoes and socks a couple of days previously, applied Body Glide to her feet regularly to ease the friction on her tender feet.

Around midday, a ranger pulled up to empathize with us and check we were OK, which we appreciated.  We found another water cache put out for hikers with 32km to go to Rawlins and loaded up with sufficient water to get us there, adding to our pack weights.

In mid-afternoon, a motorist who had seen us earlier in the day, stopped and offered us some ice-cold water, which we gratefully accepted.  The kindness of strangers helping us yet again along this stretch of road.

We soldiered on and, eventually, Rawlins, along with a busy freeway and freight rail line, came into view.  So, also, did some thunderstorms, strong winds and rain.  As we made our way through the residential streets of the small town, Julie found a wallet loaded with cash and cards in a small park.  Then, when we reached the main street, she Googled the location of the town police station, which turned out to be nearby, and dropped the wallet off there.

Our motel was on the other side of the town which, like many in the US, had an old main street with many shuttered/defunct businesses and, on the edge of town, new business zones with a Walmart, supermarkets, fast food outlets and motels.

We reached our motel, dripping wet, around 6:30pm and checked in for three nights, giving us two days off as a reward for the effort of the last five days and, particularly, the last two, and for reaching the halfway point on our journey to Canada.  Julie's feet and Dave's body will benefit from the two days rest.

We enjoyed some burgers from the nearby McDonald's for dinner and had a relaxed evening, looking forward to a sleep-in tomorrow.

Day 074 - Continental Divide Trail - Battle Pass to Sage Creek Road

Day: 074

Date: Friday, 19 July 2024

Start:  Battle Pass 

Finish:  Sage Creek Road

Daily Kilometres:  48.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2171.8

Weather:  Mild early then mostly warm and sunny in the morning with thunderstorms and rain periods in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Snacks

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - painful trench feet.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  In the afternoon, as we descended from the high mountains to lower hills in Wyoming, it seemed that the CDT planners made sure that we crossed over the summit of every hill, even though they did not offer any significantly better views.  It was tedious up and down on rocky trails across sage brush-covered hills.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by 6am on a milder morning than usual after periods of light rain overnight.

Our route for most of the day was to continue following the ridge of a range of mountains towards the north-west.  After a steady climb on a 4WD track we reached just under 11000' on the shoulder of Bridger Peak and were above the treeline with great views.

We stayed above 10500' for another couple of hours crossing meadows and enjoying the views until we began a long descent towards the high plains of southern Wyoming.  As we got lower, the vegetation changed completely and we ended up crossing a series of dry sage brush-covered hills (see above) before a final descent through scrubby overgrown trail to meet a road.

During the afternoon, we met a southbound hiker who remarked how quickly she had covered the Sage Creek Road Alternate south from Rawlins.  Afterwards, as we were planning to take the same Alternate, we discussed her comment and decided that we could possibly make Rawlins by Saturday night instead of Sunday lunchtime as originally planned. The 58km Sage Creek Road Alternate into Rawlins, is the choice of most thruhikers, instead of the official CDT route.  It was shorter and easier walking and passed through much of the same country.

We calculated that, if we walked late into the evening once we reached the Alternate, we could cut tomorrow's distance to Rawlins down to about 50km.  Thus, we walked about 9km along Sage Creek Road through rolling treeless country, once we reached it around 6pm, and found a place to camp in a culvert beside the very quiet road around 8pm.

We just ate snacks for dinner so we could get to sleep at a reasonable hour and plan to get up early tomorrow for our big day.

Day 073 - Continental Divide Trail - Whiskey Creek to Battle Pass

Day: 073

Date: Thursday, 18 July 2024

Start:  Whiskey Creek

Finish:  Battle Pass

Daily Kilometres:  36.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2123.5

Weather:  Cool early then mostly warm and sunny with a thunderstorm in the early afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals 

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - trench toes.

Highlight:  Around 6:30am we crossed into Wyoming and left Colorado behind.  Although we do touch Idaho later on, we really only have Wyoming and Montana to go.

Lowlight:  Julie’s misjudged a step trying to cross a boggy creek and her leg went thigh deep into a sucky black morass.  She was not happy.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We got going by soon after 6am and shortly thereafter crossed into our third state, Wyoming (see above).

After a bit of reasonable trail and roadwalking, Wyoming showed us it meant business and we had a rollercoaster 10km, steeply up and down, as we followed a mountain range to the northwest through the Huston Park Wilderness, culminating in a debilitatingly steep climb, with lots of blow downs, up to 10500’ on an unnamed mountain (on our maps anyway).

From there, things improved and we enjoyed some lovely hiking along a broad ridge populated by scenic boulder knolls and crags, with great views over the mountains to the north and south, despite some lingering thunderstorms.

The descent from the ridge crossed a number of very attractive and very soggy and boggy meadows, bordered by pine forests.  Along the way, we met our first southbound CDT thruhikers who had started in Canada a few months ago.  We expect to see many more in the coming month.

As we neared the end of our day, and Battle Pass, we met a couple of cowboys on foot, one wearing a pistol on his belt, who asked whether we had seen a couple of horses and a mule.  We hadn't.  They did have a couple of dogs with them, otherwise we don't know how long it would take to find their livestock in the vastness of the mountains we had crossed.

After crossing Battle Pass and a very quiet Hwy 70, we found somewhere to camp by the side of a rough forest road at about 6:30pm and called it a day.

Day 072 - Continental Divide Trail - North Three Island Creek to Whiskey Creek

Day: 072

Date: Wednesday, 17 July 2024

Start:  North Three Island Creek

Finish:  Whiskey Creek

Daily Kilometres:  40.4

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2087.2

Weather:  Cool early then warm and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals

Aches:  Dave - very tired and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Late in the day, a misunderstanding meant that we were separated for nearly 90 minutes and it cost considerable time and energy to find each other again.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by soon after 6am, as usual.  After a climb over a ridge on a beautiful morning, we descended to a trailhead on Middle Fork Elk River where two things of importance to thruhikers could be found, a toilet (pit) and a trash dumpster.

After making use of those facilities we began a long climb back up from 8000’ to 10000’ on trails following the North Fork Elk River upstream.

The first part was a bit unpleasant on narrow single-track through wet undergrowth, although as we climbed into the forest the trail was drier.   After another hour, the CDT joined 4WD/ATV tracks which we followed for the rest of the day.  They climbed up through alpine meadows and pine forest.  Most of the time the walking was relatively easy, but every now and then there was a very steep climb on rough rocky trail.

At the top of the climb, there was a lovely hour or two at 10000’ walking through meadows and forest on level trail.  Magic.

Later we began a descent, to 9000’, punctuated with some short steep climbs over knolls.  We lost some time late in the day due to a misunderstanding (see above) and didn't actually reach the water we needed to camp, and a tent site, until just after 7pm, a later day than we had hoped.

Day 071 - Continental Divide Trail - Buffalo Pass to North Three Island Creek

Day: 071

Date: Tuesday, 16 July 2024

Start:  Buffalo Pass

Finish:  North Three Island Creek

Daily Kilometres:  34.8

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2046.8

Weather:  Mild and sunny in the morning, thunderstorms with hail and rain early in the afternoon, then mostly cloudy.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  The fabulous craggy/rocky mountains viewed from 11500’ on the shoulder of Mount Ethel were awesome.

Lowlight:  The thunderstorms, accompanied by hail and freezing rain, that rolled through as we passed over the shoulder of Lone Ranger Peak at an altitude of 11800’ were very unpleasant.  Dave saw a lightning strike in the valley below and to our right, which made us feel very exposed.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

The mosquitoes made packing up a chore, and we were glad to start hiking soon after 6am, wearing a coating of insect repellent.  Otherwise, it was a beautiful morning and we were soon bathed in sunlight.

The early hiking was across quiet meadows and past perfectly still alpine ponds, though it seemed that we were always climbing.  We were mostly above the treeline and began to have spectacular views to the east and west.

As we climbed, the trail became more technical and challenging.  It was more a route, marked by cairns, than a maintained trail, and Dave found the going slow with his still heavy pack.

However, the higher we went the better the views and it was a rewarding ascent onto the shoulder of Mt Ethel and then onto a high treeless plateau for a few kilometres.

After some undulations we began the climb over the shoulder of Lost Ranger Peak and stopped for our lunch break as the skies became dark and the thunder rumbled.  It didn't start hailing and raining until we crossed the shoulder, but we were still very high and the weather was unpleasant and a little scary (see above).

After descending from the mountain, we crossed a very soggy plain and it became evident that we had missed the worst of the hail, as there were impressive accumulations of hail on the ground for the next few kilometres.

The last part of our day involved a long technical descent, often interrupted by blown-down trees, that was a good test for tired knees, until we reached a forest road at around 8500’, off which we found a spot to camp at 6pm.  Didn't get quite as far as hoped today, but the trail conditions were challenging.

Day 070 - Rabbit Ears Pass to Buffalo Pass

Day: 070

Date: Monday, 15 July 2024

Start:  Rabbit Ears Pass (but staying in Steamboat Springs)

Finish:  Buffalo Pass

Daily Kilometres:  29.1

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  2012.0

Weather:  Warm and sunny with a thunderstorm and some rain in the late afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Microwaved breakfast burritos.

  Lunch:  Ham & cheese rolls

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - very tired with the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  None in particular.

Lowlight:  The mosquitoes were terrible in the evening.  It was almost impossible to eat dinner without swallowing mosquitoes which were buzzing in hordes around us and crawling over everything.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We got an Uber (with a very chatty driver) from our apartment in Steamboat Springs at 7:30am and were back on the trail at Rabbit Ears Pass (named for a nearby mountain that looks like it has ears at its summit) by 8am.

The day was already mild and sunny and the mosquitoes were out.  Our packs were very heavy with 6-7 days of food (one day's food = 1kg) to see us through to our next town, Rawlins in Wyoming.  We could have carried less and resupplied along the way in a very small town called Encampment, but that would have involved hitchhiking from, and to, the trail on a very quiet road and the town didn't have much in the way of supplies or accommodation.

We decided to save time and hike straight through to Rawlins, though Dave was second-guessing this decision after a mile of hiking with his very heavy pack.  We took some extra short breaks to make the day easier and, in the end, covered more ground than we had budgeted.  Generally, on our first day out of town, we only budget for about 24km, given the likely later start, heavier packs and uphill hiking, so were happy enough with our 29km today.

It helped that the trail was generally easy walking, with some undulations.  We followed a very broad ridge northwards through pine forests and across wildflower-carpeted meadows passing many attractive small lakes along the way.  A few patches of snow here and there betrayed the fact that we were hiking at around 10000’ most of the day, rather than much lower.  During the afternoon, we did spot a moose grazing on the far side of one of the meadows we crossed.

We met some day-hikers and overnight-hikers along the way, but no CDT hikers today.

Given we had covered the distance we hoped, we stopped a bit earlier than usual, at 5:30pm, soon after we had passed Buffalo Pass and entered the Mount Zirkel Wilderness, and found a tent site a little way off the trail.

The mosquitoes were horrendous while we were setting up camp and having dinner, and we adjourned to our tent as soon as we could to escape the hordes.

We recorded our 2000th kilometre of the trip today.

Day 069 - Continental Divide Trail - Steamboat Springs

Day: 069

Date: Sunday, 14 July 2024

Start:  Rabbit Ears Pass (but staying in Steamboat Springs)

Finish:  Rabbit Ears Pass (but staying in Steamboat Springs)

Daily Kilometres:  0.0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her run this morning.

Total Kilometres:  1982.9

Weather:  Warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Rental apartment.

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Omelette/Avocado scramble & potatoes.

  Lunch:  Ham & cheese subs/Salad

  Dinner:  Roast beef & vegetables.

Aches:  Nothing to report.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: No pictures today.

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Relaxed start to the day for Dave while Julie went for a sightseeing run around Steamboat Springs.  Very impressed.

We then had a very good breakfast at a nearby diner before visiting an adjacent outdoor store to get a few things and were served by an 20-year expat Australian with whom we had a.long chat.

The rest of the day was spent quietly going about the usual in-town chores - planning, shopping, laundry - at a relaxed pace.

For dinner, Julie again home-cooked some food and we had a quiet evening.

Day 068 - Continental Divide Trail - Ironclad Mountain to Rabbit Ears Pass

Day: 068

Date: Saturday, 13 July 2024

Start:  Ironclad Mountain

Finish:  Rabbit Ears Pass (but staying in Steamboat Springs)

Daily Kilometres:  21.7

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1982.9

Weather:  Cold early then warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Rental apartment

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Nachos/Mexican bowl

  Dinner:  Meatloaf, vegetables & macaroni cheese, peach crumble & ice-cream.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Julie's Birthday!

Lowlight:  The biting flies were a nuisance during the latter part of the morning and while hitchhiking.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were gone from our campsite (apparently on private land) by 6am without incident.  Neither of us slept well.  Our tent site was lumpy and sloping and it was unusually warm for the first part of the night.

We had about 22km of road walking ahead of us to reach the trailhead from where we planned to hitch-hike to Steamboat Springs where we had an apartment booked for two nights. The first 3km was along the quiet dirt road we had followed yesterday as a beautiful, but cold, day dawned over the grazing land around us.

The CDT then turned left onto the quite busy sealed Hwy 14, which we followed for about 16km, climbing gradually nearly the whole way through ranchland, though few cattle were seen.   The day became warmer and we were soon down to our t-shirts and shorts.

A right turn then took us onto the equally busy Hwy 40 which we followed up onto Rabbit Ears Pass (9142’) and the trailhead where the CDT leaves the highway.  By this time the small biting flies were tormenting us, as they continued to do when we stopped hiking and began hitchhiking towards Steamboat Springs, 35km away.

Despite the number of vehicles, it took 20-30 minutes before a young.couple, on their way home to Steamboat Springs from a triathlon yesterday in Dillon, a small town we had stayed in two weeks or so ago.  We had a good chat as we drove down to the town and they dropped us off at our accommodation.

We presented ourselves, trying to look tired and in need of a shower, at reception at noon, and asked very nicely for early check-in (check-in time was 4pm!).  The friendly receptionist obliged and we were soon checked in to our very nice and very expensive apartment.  Steamboat Springs is a well-known ski resort and is also very popular summer vacation destination, with lots of outdoor activities on offer, and some.kind of art exhibition on this weekend.

After showers, we went to a nearby shopping centre and bought some lunch, before returning to our apartment via a large supermarket where we bought some dinner to cook for tonight and the usual “in town” snacks.  Also some cheap disposable razors for Dave to use in disposing of his beard, which he did this afternoon.

We enjoyed Julie's birthday dinner in our apartment with a meal she prepared! Now we are looking forward to a day off tomorrow.

Day 067 - Continental Divide Trail - Poison Ridge to Ironclad Mountain

Day: 067

Date: Friday, 12 July 2024

Start:  Poison Ridge 

Finish:  Ironclad Mountain

Daily Kilometres:  39.9

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1961.2

Weather:  Mild early then warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Snacks/Trail mix

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Small biting flies were a big nuisance this afternoon and evening.  They are slow, so usually when they bite us, it is their last bite.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by soon after 6am on a mild and sunny morning.  The first early morning without frozen fingers for a while.

The CDT continued to follow the crest of the Rabbit Ears Range, sometimes going over the high points and sometimes around, but mostly above the treeline and mostly around 11500’.  The views continued to be fantastic and the trail wasn't too bad apart from a couple of very steep short climbs.

Around noon, after a descent to Arapaho Creek and a long climb back up to the ridge at 11500’, we joined a rough forest road and the remainder of our day was spent on steadily improving forest roads.  It was a nice change from the tough trail of yesterday and we made good time.

We only saw one vehicle all afternoon and the driver stopped to tell us he had just seen a bear and a moose down the trail in the direction we were walking.  Of course, we saw neither.

We were also out of luck with respect to trail magic.  Our navigation app said someone was providing treats for hikers up until this evening at a certain location but, when we got there, before 5pm, they were gone.

We did have some “magic” a little further on when we stopped at an RV parked off the road and were given choc chip cookies by Jim, and water which we needed for the night and which was scarce along the road.  Jim, an ex-Marine, apparently parks there each year and gives cookies and water to passing CDT hikers in return for a bit of a chat.

We continued on for another hour or so along the road before finding a marginal spot to camp for the night just off the road at around 6:30pm.  Later, Jim drove along the road and told us we were camped on private property but that we would probably be OK if we left early.  The signage was ambiguous, so we didn't feel too guilty.

We're looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow before we hitch-hike into Steamboat Springs for resupply and a day off.

Day 066 - Continental Divide Trail - Trout Creek to Poison Ridge.

Day: 066

Date: Thursday, 11 July 2024

Start:  Trout Creek

Finish:  Poison Ridge

Daily Kilometres:  31.6

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1921.3

Weather:  Cold early then warm and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - exhausted and the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  The 360° views from the top of Parkview Mountain (12296’) were spectacular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Tough day, for Dave.

We were hiking by soon after 6am, but the trail was difficult, badly eroded and cut up by trail bikes which were apparently permitted on the trail.  They had gouged out a deep narrow trench, often filled with loose rocks, that was difficult to walk in, making it hard work.  The area had been burnt out by a wildfire a few years ago which also detracted from the mood.

After 2.5 hours of dealing with that, we crossed a highway at Willow Creek Pass (9629’) and began the long ascent up Parkview Mountain.  Initially, the climb was just steady but, above the treeline, it was steep and interminable.  The motto of the Continental Divide Trail is “embrace the brutality”, and the climb was brutal, for Dave, at least.  The altitude and pack didn't help, and he had to stop and catch his breath every 100m or so on the steepest parts.  The worst part was that most of the time you could see the trail switchbacking far above you.  What was a 73-y-o doing here?!

Anyway, we finally reached the summit around 1pm and took a lunch break admiring the view.  You could see a long way in all directions, including into Wyoming to the north, our next state.  Dave was picking up Wyoming radio stations as we hiked.

The ascent of Parkview Mountain was followed by a steep descent, then we followed the ridge of the Rabbit Ears Range westward with good views all the way.  The trail then worked its way around Haystack Mountain through a wildfire-ravaged area with lots of trees down across the trail, which was time and energy consuming.

We kept hiking until about 6:30pm when we reached a treeless saddle on Poison Ridge (10620’) and found a tent site with a fabulous view and called it a day.  We hadn't got as far as we liked, but there had been no easy trail today.

The mosquitoes here are horrendous and we can hear them buzzing outside the tent as the blog is written.

Day 065 - Continental Divide Trail - Grand Lake to Trout Creek

Day: 065

Date: Wednesday, 10 July 2024

Start:  Grand Lake

Finish:  Trout Creek

Daily Kilometres:  35.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1889.7

Weather:  Warm and sunny to mid-afternoon, then overcast with a thunderstorm.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Microwaved breakfast burritos

  Lunch:  Snacks/Ham & cheese roll

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Climbing over Bowen Pass (11470’) was going to be a highlight but, as we cleared the treeline, a thunderstorm that had been brewing, began thundering loudly, it got very cold,  and a mix of snow and sleet began to fall.  High above the treeline was not the place to be during a thunderstorm and we didn't linger as we crossed the Pass and descended as quickly as we could.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

After a good night's sleep in our comfortable cabin, we ate our microwaved breakfast burritos and began hiking around 7:45am on a lovely sunny morning.  Initially, we followed the Rocky Mountains National Park Cut-Off route which passed through a long stretch of burned forest dating from a wildfire in 2020.  It was encouraging to see the wildflowers out in abundance, but the trees were all dead with no sign of forest recovery, which was sad.  There were some grassy meadows bordering the Tonahutu Creek, and we spied, in the distance, two moose grazing and watching us.

We also met four CDT hikers, travelling as a group, or “trail family”, and saw them again later in the day.

We rejoined the official CDT after a couple of hours and followed it to a trailhead where Dave remembered it as the start of a memorable 25km run he did to Bear Lake over Flattop Mt in abysmal conditions, about 30 years ago.  Also at the trailhead were two rangers with horses and packhorses getting ready to carry in supplies to a crew working on the trail.

From there, after a short road walk, we spent some hours gradually climbing through pine forest on mostly good trail towards Bowen Pass.  The weather gradually deteriorated during the afternoon as a thunderstorm developed and the climb over the Pass was not that pleasant (see above).

Rain continued for an hour or so after we crossed the Pass and returned below the treeline, but then the clouds cleared and the evening was more pleasant.  Rather than stop early, we continued hiking until we reached a stream to get water for the night and found somewhere to camp nearby at around 7:30pm.  The mosquitoes were bad.

Day 064 - Continental Divide Trail - Monarch Lake to Grand Lake

Day: 064

Date: Tuesday, 09 July 2024

Start:  Monarch Lake

Finish:  Grand Lake

Daily Kilometres:  27.6

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1854.4

Weather:  Cold early then warm and sunny in the morning and cloudy with scattered thunderstorms in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Cabin

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Burritos 

  Dinner:  Burgers & fries, cheesecake.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We woke at the usual 5am and were walking by 6am on a cold morning, but not as cold as yesterday when we were 3000’ higher.

Our campsite this morning was at 8320’ and our day was largely spent at a similar elevation as we followed a series of lakes and waterways - Lake Granby, the Colorado River, Shadow Mountain Lake - to the town of Grand Lake sitting on, you guessed it, Grand Lake.

The trail wasn't very easy early, as hoped, as we climbed to a ridge overlooking Lake Granby.  We had about 24km to Grand Lake where we had accommodation booked and planned to resupply.  In a perfect world, we would have had an easy trail and be in Grand Lake in time for a restaurant lunch.

The trail did get easier, though there were a few scary bits along the dammed Colorado River where the trail was very narrow and gravelly, crumbling away in parts, on an almost vertical slope high above the river.

The lakes and waterways were beautiful and calm early, with a spectacular backdrop of mountains.  We saw a lot of watercraft, mostly pontoon boats, with vacationers out enjoying themselves as well as plenty of day-hikers, some of whom knew about the CDT and were keen to chat.

We did make good time after the earlier technical trail and reached the main street of the cute little town of Grand Lake soon after 1:30pm and found a Mexican restaurant that looked cheap enough for us to afford.  Everything in Colorado is expensive, though generally good quality.  Grand Lake itself was very busy.  It has a contrived western feel, with wooden sidewalks, and is a vacation/outdoors town.  The wooden sidewalks have the CDT logo branded into them.

Following lunch, we visited the nearby outdoor store and Dave purchased much-needed new inner and outer socks.  In just the last few days, large holes had appeared in all four socks!

That done, we began the journey to our booked accommodation high on a hill overlooking Grand Lake, stopping at a small grocery on the way to buy some food.  After checking in to our very expensive cabin around 4pm, part of a large lodge within Rocky Mountain National Park, Julie made the trip back down the mountain to buy some additional supplies needed for the next four days hiking.

Later we brought takeout dinner at the restaurant attached to the lodge for dinner and had a reasonably early night.

Day 063 - Continental Divide Trail - Corona Pass to Monarch Lake

Day: 063

Date: Monday, 08 July 2024

Start:  Corona Pass

Finish:  Monarch Lake

Daily Kilometres:  38.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1826.8

Weather:  Very cold in the morning then mild and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Saw our first moose for this trip.  Actually two moose, feeding near the outlet of Monarch Lake at the end of our day.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We had a day of two halves.  The first half started above the treeline in freezing conditions - puddles frozen over, frost and frozen hands - as we set off at 6am to complete our climb up to Rollins Pass.  We were in the shadow of the mountain until we reached the Pass and some warming sunshine, but it was a crystal clear day and we had great views.

We stayed above the treeline for the rest of the morning at around 12000’, with awesome views all the way, until we reached Devils Thumb Pass.  The scale of the mountains and high meadows made us feel very small.

The descent from Devils Thumb Pass took us below the treeline and into the second half of our day which started with a section of burnt out and fallen timber dating back to a wildfire last year.

Further down we passed through beautiful pine forest and past vast verdant meadows until, near the end of the day, we reached the beautiful Monarch Lake.  It was a popular tourist area and there were many about.  Just before reaching the picnic area we joined a few of the tourists admiring a couple of moose feeding in the creek.

The picnic area would have been a good place to camp (though probably not permitted although we didn't see any signs), but there were too many people about.  So, we followed the CDT down the entrance road and found a tent site out of sight of the road just before 7pm and set up camp.

Day 062 - Continental Divide Trail - Berthoud Pass to Corona Pass

Day: 062

Date: Sunday, 07 July 2024

Start:  Berthoud Pass 

Finish:  Corona Pass

Daily Kilometres:  30.1

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1788.5

Weather:  Mostly cold. Sunny in the morning and mostly cloudy in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  McMuffins, hash browns.

  Lunch:  Meat & cheese subs.

  Dinner:  Snacks

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Crossed our highest point of the trip so far, James Peak (13309’).

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

After breakfast in our motel room, purchased from the nearby McDonald's, we checked out at about 7:20am and began hitchhiking on the main road that ran past the motel.  There was a lot of traffic, but we weren't having much luck until, after about 15 minutes, a young aerospace engineer, on his way home to Denver with three large dogs in the back, gave us a lift in his SUV.  A very nice guy and we had a good chat during the 20 minute drive up to Berthoud Pass where he dropped us off at 8am.

The trailhead carpark was already quite busy and we met many day-hikers as we began the long 2000’ climb from the pass to the summit of Mt Flora (13123’).  It was very cold, with a strong wind blowing, and hikers were sheltering behind rock windbreaks while admiring the views, which were spectacular.

We continued down over the other side of the mountain and left most of the day-hikers behind as we descended through very rocky terrain.  It was a bit galling that we ended up descending 3000’ over the next 8km, only to have to regain all of it during the afternoon to reach James Peak (13309’).  We had been concerned that thunderstorms were originally forecast for the afternoon but, although it did cloud over and the mountain top was shrouded in fog, there was no storm.  Then, as if on cue, as we neared the summit, the fog mostly cleared and we had more spectacular views from the top.

With all ascending and descending, much of it on rocky trail, our progress had been slow and it was nearly 6pm by the time we did reach the summit amd have a look around.

On our descent from James Peak there were few opportunities to camp or get water, and it was 8:15pm by the time we found both and set up camp.  Having eaten well earlier on the day we quickly got into the tent and just ate snacks for dinner.

Day 061 - Continental Divide Trail - Berthoud Pass (but staying in Winter Park)

Day: 061

Date: Saturday, 06 July 2024

Start:  Berthoud Pass (but staying in Winter Park)

Finish:  Berthoud Pass (but staying in Winter Park)

Daily Kilometres:  0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her run this morning.

Total Kilometres:  1758.4

Weather:  Cool to mild and sunny.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  McDonalds breakfast platter

  Lunch:  Mexicali Sub

  Dinner:  Burrito/Quesadillas, icecream 

Aches:  Nothing to report.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Julie went for her usual “in town” morning run along the trails to the north of Winter Park while Dave had a more relaxed start to the day.  Afterwards we walked to the nearby McDonald's for breakfast before journeying further down to an outdoor store to buy some dehydrated food.

Julie then continued on another 4km to the sister town of Fraser where there is a larger supermarket to buy some food while Dave bought some other supplies on his way back to the motel.

Winter Park is a very pleasant resort town, catering for skiers in the winter and cyclists and hikers in the summer.  There were lots of holidaymakers in town and the cafes were busy on a very pleasant summer's day.

We bought lunch nearby and then had a look around an art exhibition in the town park which was also very busy.

Laundry and relaxation in the afternoon before having dinner at a nearby restaurant and buying (over-priced) ice cream for dessert on the way back to our room.

Back on the trail tomorrow and a little apprehensive about the two 13000’ peaks we have to cross with thunderstorms forecast in the afternoon.

Day 060 - Continental Divide Trail - Bobtail Creek to Berthoud Pass

Day: 060

Date: Friday, 05 July 2024

Start:  Bobtail Creek

Finish:  Berthoud Pass (but staying in Winter Park)

Daily Kilometres:  28.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1758.4

Weather:  Cold early, then cool and sunny with a strong cold wind above the treeline.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Burger & fries, thick shakes.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - sore ribs after slipping on a rock crossing a small creek and falling onto another rock and partially into the creek.  The situation was not helped by Dave rushing to help her and slipping on the same rock and falling on top of her, pack and all.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  The first few hours hiking were tough.  It was very cold, with ice on the puddles and frost on the undergrowth.  Our boots/shoes and socks were still wet from yesterday's ford and we had to ford another freezing creek (calf deep) soon after starting.  We both had frozen hands and feet and the trail was often hard to discern, further dampening our mood.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were hiking by 6am on a very cold morning and the first few hours, as we followed Bobtail Creek downstream, were very cold and it was pretty miserable (see above).

After about 90 minutes, and still very cold, we reached a forest road that we followed steeply switch-backing uphill, climbing 2000’ in 3 miles (5km) to Jones Pass (12460’) where we rejoined the official CDT.  We stopped there for a breakfast break sheltering from the cold wind and next to a snowbank.  Suddenly we heard a swishing sound and a young guy snowboarded past us on the snow, followed by another.  They must have driven up the forest road on the other side of the snowbank, which blocked the road, to get to their snow.  They must have been keen.

We were now well above the treeline and followed a ridge in the bitterly cold and strong wind into the Vasquez Peak Wilderness.  The views were just awesome, surrounded by snowy peaks and mountain ranges, not to mention the wildflower-carpeted meadows we were crossing.  We reached our highest point so far, 12738’, along the way, and had to negotiate some small snowfields.

Although we dropped back down into the forest around lunchtime, high above the Henderson Mine (molybdenum) which we could hear, we climbed back above the treeline after lunch,  After crossing Stanley Mountain (12499’), we stayed high in the strong wind, sometimes being literally blown off the track.  And it was cold!

Eventually we began to descend and reached Berthoud Gap and Hwy 40 around 4:30pm.  We began hitching and soon got a lift from a chatty local down to Winter Park and our motel.

We checked in with the friendly proprietor, showered and then Julie went and bought some takeout for dinner.

Day 059 - Continental Divide Trail - Dillon to Bobtail Creek

Day: 059

Date: Thursday, 04 July 2024

StartDillon

Finish:  Bobtail Creek

Daily Kilometres:  28.8

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1730.1

Weather:  Cool to mild and sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Motel Continental breakfast.

  Lunch:  Turkey & cheese subs

  Dinner:  Snacks

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  Dave woke to the distressing news that one of his best friends, dating from nearly 50 years ago, was in palliative care in a London hospital with end-stage cancer.  It tinged the day with great sadness.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We had a slow start to the day and it was 8am before we left our motel to begin hiking.  We have now joined the Silverthorne Cut-Off Alternate and the climb out of town was steep.

Initially, we followed the Ptarmigan Peak trail, which was obviously a popular local trail, and we met a lot of day hikers, some dressed in Americana garb given it was July 4th.

Our path diverged from theirs after three hours on the shoulder of Ptarmigan Peak at around 11900’ and above the treeline, and we made our way towards Ptarmigan Pass with truly spectacular views in many directions.  The trail was now more of a “route” than a trail as we crossed the high wildflower-bespeckled moorland looking for the cairns that marked the way.  In places it was difficult to work out where we were supposed to go and that cost some time.

Once through Ptarmigan Pass (11781’), the trail continued to be difficult to follow and the descent to the Williams Fork Creek was also rocky and slow.  Immediately after fording the creek, we began a long climb to back above the treeline through pine forest on slow trail, made even slower by many blown down trees that took time and energy to climb over or go around.  By now it was becoming obvious that we weren't going to get as far today as originally hoped.

Once above the treeline again, we had a whole new range of spectacular alpine mountain views and many photos were taken.  We stayed above the treeline for the rest of the afternoon following faint trail and cairns along a ridge line, dodging snow in places, generally around 12000’.  It was often hard to work out the route and we made several navigational errors that cost a lot of time and energy when we were ready for the day to be over.

Eventually, around 6:30pm, we crested out last pass for the day and began a long descent.  At 8pm, we found a tent site amongst some trees and close to a stream and called it a day.  Given the late hour, and knowing we will be in a town tomorrow night, we just had snacks for dinner and went to bed without our usual wash.

Day 058 - Continental Divide Trail - Officers Gulch to Dillon

Day: 058

Date: Wednesday, 03 July 2024

Start:  Officers Gulch 

Finish:  Dillon

Daily Kilometres:  17.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1701.3

Weather:  Cold and clear early, then sunny and warm.

Accommodation:  Motel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Breakfast burritos

  Lunch:  Nachos/Toasted chicken ranch sub

  Dinner:  Hamburgers & fries, cheesecake & icecream.

Aches:  Nothing reported.

Highlight:  Having an unplanned (two days ago) easy day of low kilometres and relatively flat interesting and scenic walking.  (We only became aware of an “alternate” route following bike paths two days ago that saved time and effort.)

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We both had a fairly sleepless night.  The nearby I-70 freeway was very busy all night, especially with 18-wheelers using their engine brakes down the hill.  Consequently, we were both ready to go when the alarm went off and were hiking by 6am.

It was a very cold morning with an icy breeze and the bike path we continued to follow was in the shade of the high surrounding mountains for the first hour.  However, the cold also kept bike path users in bed and we had the path to ourselves.  The mountain gorge scenery, with the rushing Tenmile Creek beside us, kept us interested and the time passed quickly.

By 7:30am we were walking down the main street of the attractive little town of Frisco.  Early risers were hitting the cafes and city workers were preparing for a 4th of July parade tomorrow morning.  American flags were everywhere.

On the other side of town we stopped in at a Taco Belle for breakfast before joining another bike path that followed the western shore of the beautiful Dillon Reservoir, alive with boaters and backed by partly snow-covered mountains.  It was now warm and sunny and the path was very busy with cyclists and walkers.  Being a holiday week, no doubt many of them were vacationers.  It was good to see so many people out enjoying themselves.

After crossing the reservoir wall, we descended into the busy little town of Dillon where we had booked a motel room.  Even though it was only 11:30am, and check-in time was 4pm, we tried our luck, presenting as two tired hikers badly in need of a shower, and the friendly receptionist found us a room.  We were very happy.

After showers and some handwashing of clothes, we went to a nearby cafe for lunch and then did a small amount of shopping.  Given it's only two days to our next town, we didn't need much.

Back at the motel we had a quiet afternoon before getting take-out dinner and having an early night.

Day 057 - Continental Divide Trail - Jones Gulch to Officers Gulch.

Day: 057

Date: Tuesday, 02 July 2024

Start:  Jones Gulch 

Finish:  Officers Gulch

Daily Kilometres:  37.0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1684.0

Weather:  Cold and foggy early, clearing to a cool/mild and mostly sunny day.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/Muesli

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Egg salad sandwich/ Chicken salad sandwich, chips.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  After a long climb in fog through soggy meadows and damp forest, the fog dissipated and the sun appeared just as we emerged above the treeline for the last couple of kilometres to Kokymo Pass (12024’).  We then had eight kilometres of beautiful views in many directions as we crossed two more high points, Elk Ridge (12281’) and Searle Pass (12045’), without dropping below 11900’.  It was superb walking.

Lowlight:  Nothing in particular.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

A mighty thunderstorm interrupted our sleep in the small hours with vividly bright lightning and thunder which shook the ground beneath our sleeping bags.  We were glad we were camped at a relatively low altitude (9700’) and deep in the forest.

By the time we woke at 5am, the rain had stopped and the tent was relatively dry.  We were hiking by soon after 6am on a cold dank overcast morning, first along a forest road, but then through very wet undergrowth before we began our foggy climb to Kokymo Pass.  We stopped for a breakfast break at the alpine treeline and the fog kindly disappeared for the last part of our ascent.  We then stayed well above the treeline for 8km, enjoying expansive crystal-clear views.

The early afternoon comprised a gradual descent through pretty pine forest and alongside Guller Creek before we reached the back of the Copper Mountain ski resort.  We then descended through the ski fields into the busy village and made our way to a gas station where we bought drinks and an icecream plus sandwiches and chips for dinner.

We saw a lot of hikers during the day, most hiking some, or all, of the Colorado Trail.  We even saw a couple of fully-loaded mountain bikers doing the same trail.  That would be a tough gig!  

Our most memorable encounter was with a hiker we had got to know on the Appalachian Trail last year.  Julie was quick to recognize him and we had a good chat.

At Copper Mountain, we chose to leave the CDT and follow the Vail-Frisco Recreation Path as an alternate we had read about in our navigation app.  The path follows Tenmile Creek downstream through a spectacular gorge which, unfortunately, is also the route of the noisy Interstate 70 Highway.

We chose this route because it saves us some time tomorrow and is relatively flat.  We will rejoin the CDT in a couple of days.  The CDT is known as a make-your-own adventure trail, with many alternate route opportunities.  Our goal is to walk a continuous path from Mexico to Canada, using the official CDT most of the way (nobody hikes the exact CDT the whole way), but to use alternates where it makes sense for safety or time-saving reasons.  Dave's original schedule had us reaching the Canadian border at Chief Mountain in mid-October, but we know that border crossing closes for the winter on 30 September, so we would like to get there by then.  So far we have made up about ten days on the schedule, but need to make up about another week if possible.

After following the recreation path for about an hour from Copper Mountain, we found a spot to camp between the creek and the highway at 6pm, where we think we will not be easily seen.  With the highway so close, it's going to be a noisy night.

Day 056 - Continental Divide Trail - Bald Eagle Mountain to Jones Gulch

Day: 056

Date: Monday, 01 July 2024

Start:  Bald Eagle Mountain

Finish:  Jones Gulch

Daily Kilometres:  34.3

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1647.0

Weather:  Cold and rainy morning, warmer and partly cloudy in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts/ Muesli 

  Lunch:  Snacks

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals 

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles and a sore back; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Nothing in particular.

Lowlight:  It rained a lot overnight and started raining again while we were packing up this morning, meaning that everything got a bit damp and the tent was quite wet.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

The alarm went off at 5am, but it was raining quite steadily so we gave ourselves an extra 30 minutes sleep in the hope the rain would stop.  It had stopped by the time we emerged from our tent at 6am, but started again soon afterwards and it was miserable packing up.

When we started hiking at 6:30am, the trail was wet and boggy and the vegetation also wet.  Disappointingly, the trail was not as easy as yesterday, with lots of rocks, and our progress was slow.  It was hard to be enthusiastic in the miserable conditions, and it stayed that way for most of the morning as we passed through pine forest in the Holy Cross Wilderness and climbed over two passes at around 11500’, the second of which had some snow to negotiate, but nothing dangerous.  The views continued to be spectacular with some very rugged peaks near the trail, and a number of alpine ponds.

The weather cleared up a bit in the afternoon, with occasional sun, but also the occasional light shower, and our mood lifted a little.  We met quite a few overnight hikers today, most also complaining about the morning’s weather, and a couple of trail-runners.

Late in the day, we took a short roadwalk alternate that went past an old service station where someone maintained a cupboard with drinks and snacks for passing hikers and cyclists, and we had our last break for the day, grateful for the generosity.

Around 6:30pm, we found a very nice campsite by the trail and managed to dry out the tent while we had dinner by the light of the setting sun.  As per usual, it seems, not long after we went to bed a thunderstorm came through accompanied by heavy rain.  Looks like a wet tent again in the morning.